The Leica M1: A Minimalist's Delight

     More than one blogger has panned the Leica M1, but I don't agree.  If, like me, you're a minimalist who prefers standard transmission over automatic transmission or an old wind-up watch over a newer battery operated one, you'll like the M1.

Leica M1 with Jupiter 2/50 and Blik Lomo USSR Rangefinder and Soft Release

     Introduced in 1959, the M1 is as finely crafted and competent as are its cousins the M2, the M3, and the M4. But because it was intended for use with a Visoflex system, it lacks a rangefinder, a preview lever, and a self timer. But that's not really a problem. Actually, the M1 is an  M2 without those three refinements. Better yet, because they're not in great demand, M1s are less expensive than the M2s, M3s, and M4s are. I bought the one shown here (body only) for less than half the cost of an M2.

     I really like this camera. After all, really who needs a self timer? I don't think I used one in the last fifty years. Ditto the preview lever. By the way, the M1 shows just two frames in its viewfinder: 50mm and 35mm. Because those are the two lenses I've used the most over the years, that's not a problem for me .Of course, you can always use an accessory finder if you want to mount other
lenses.

    Perhaps the biggest complaint people have about the Leica M1 is that it lacks a dedicated rangefinder. There are two solutions to this problem: (1) you can attach an accessory rangefinder as shown the photo above, or (2) you can use the zone system. With the diaphragm set at f/11 on the Jupiter 2/50, for example, everything from about 3 meters (9' 9") to infinity will be acceptably sharp.
And it gets even better if you use a 35mm lens.  

  

Leica M1 with Jupiter 2/50

  Okay, okay. I know that some people will slam me for daring to mount an inexpensive Soviet lens on a Leica camera. And for all I know, they may be justified. But I have to say that I've used not only Soviet Jupiter lenses, but also Industar lenses for several years with good results.
   
     I have to admit, though, that all isn't peaches and cream when it comes to lenses made in the then Soviet Union. It's well known that in many cases quality control in that country hasn't always been consistent. But I guess I've been lucky because all of the lenses I've bought from Russia have performed well for me. And so has the Blik Lomo rangefinder, which I bought for just  a few bucks.

    Summary: if you require bells and whistles on your cameras, the Leica M1 is not for you. But if you like getting back to basics, then you're going to enjoy using it. And perhaps the best thing is that when you buy an M1, you're buying the same camera as the M2 without the preview lever, self timer, and rangefinder.

Darkroom on a Shoestring

     During my working life, I always built dedicated darkrooms in basements that I equipped with top notch enlargers and other gear. But after I retired, my Princess and I moved to a small one-level house in which there simply wasn't room for a darkroom. What could I do? Living life without my man cave would be like taking pictures with a broom. Desperate for an answer, I prayed to Filmonia, Goddess of Photography, at her home in Wetzlar, Germany for a solution to my problem.
      In minutes, an answer came to me. "You vil create a darkenzimmer in der poopenzimmer," trilled a voice from on high. That's when I immediately adapted one of the two bathrooms in our house for use as a darkroom.
      After making the room as light tight as possible, I searched for an enlarger and all the rest of the "stuff" one needs to process black and while film and create finished prints. By the way, I wanted to buy the equipment as inexpensively as possible.

   After a few days, I discovered the Bogen X-35 shown in the photo. This is an entry level unit that came with a film carrier that accepts 35mm negatives. It has a drawer for variable contrast filters and a decent 50mm Voss lens. The unit was New Old Stock (still in the box). I think I paid about $75 for it.
     The only problem I've had with this enlarger involved the height adjustment knob, which, because it's just 3/4" in diameter, required a lot of force to tighten it. I remedied this by making a larger knob that's 1-3/4" in diameter and attaching it to the smaller knob. I've marked it with a white dot in the photo.
      At just $5.00, the 8X10-inch Bogen easel resting on the enlarger's base was my all-time greatest "El Cheapo" find. Of course, at that price it was little more than a rusty relic. But after I removed the rust and repainted it, it works just fine.
        I found a stainless steel developing tank with two reels, three 5 X 7" trays, three tongs, a safe light, and a  GrayLab timer on the Internet at bargain prices. In my junk drawer I found a Weston thermometer. I discovered, also, a bargain priced set of polycontrast filters on the Internet.
       I bought a few dozen rolls of Kentmere Pan 100 B/W film, some Kentmere VC paper, and packets of Dektol, D-76, and Kodak fixer. After mixing the powdered chemicals with water, I store them in 12-ounce green bottles that had contained ginger ale.
       I didn't buy a stop bath because I use plain water to arrest both film and paper development, and I didn't buy Photo Flo either. That's because  I add one or two drops of Dawn detergent to a gallon of water to make an inexpensive wetting agent for film.
      I usually use the Dektol four or five times before I dump it. Because I test the fixer by placing a bit of exposed film into it and watching to see how long it takes to become clear, I don't use hypo check.
     This system seems to work quite well for me, especially since I'm printing only 5 X 7-inch B/W prints.   Here are a few photos I processed in my new, makeshift poopenzimmer darkroom. Thank you, Filmonia.

Leica M3 Canon 3.5/135mm

Leica M2 Jupiter 2.0/50mm

Leica M3 Jupiter 2.0/50mm

Leica M3 Canon 3.5/135mm

Leica M4 Jupiter 2.0/50mm

And Yet Another Leica M3

   I'm not really a Leicaholic, but I simply couldn't resist this camera, which is my fifth M Leica. Because it showed several dings and dents; had a self timer that was kaput; needed to be recovered; and lacked a frame preview lever, I was able to buy it for a decent price. In fact, I reasoned, the price was so low that even if I had to send the camera off to Youxin Ye for service, I'd be ahead of the game. I guess that's one of the perks that comes with being comfortably retired.
   Amazingly, despite the problems cited above, M3 #740961 has proven to be a winner. The viewfinder is clear; the rangefinder is accurate; the double stroke film advance is silky smooth; the shutter curtains are intact and free of pinholes; and the shutter operates as it should. Amazingly, the L seal is still intact.
  Luckily the inoperable self timer isn't a problem for me. I've never used one, and I don't plan to. Incidentally, because this M3 is one of the original versions (1955) the shutter speeds (1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 250, 500, 1000 +B) differ from those on later models.

   Here's a photo of this venerable classic after I stripped the original corrupted covering from it. Not shown is the back door, which suffered from a severe case of chipped and peeling paint, which I corrected before I applied the new covering to it.
  Now for an interesting aside. The M cameras were originally covered in vulcanite, which is no longer available. Truth to tell, I don't know what today's coverings are made of, but I can't tell the difference between the old ones and the new ones. My source for these coverings is Aki-asahi in Japan. Good quality, fair prices; excellent service. For more about recovering your camera, see Make Your Old Camera Great Again in the 9/9/19 entry of this blog.

    This photo shows the same camera after I completed the recovering process. Mounted on it is a Soviet era Jupiter 8, 2/50mm lens that I picked up for fewer than $50 a while back.
   Some Leica lovers will scoff at this lens; gnash their teeth; and pull their hair out because "it doesn't belong on a Leica." But I've gotten good results with it, as shown by the accompany-
ing photos. This lens has a screw mount, but I attached it to the camera with a generic LTM-M adapter.

 








  Because I'm a frugal person who didn't want to spend $18 or so on a pair of flash socket covers, I used an inexpensive hole puncher to create little paper covers that fit perfectly into the openings. They are not very elegant, but they do the job for which they're intended. You can see them in the photo shown below. Incidentally, I've used the same little paper covers on my M1, M2, and another M3 that I own. Sadly, they won't fit on my M4.

      According to everything I've read, except for the missing preview lever and the changes in the shutter speeds, this early M3 is about the same as its later cousins. Be that as it may, I've found that there seem to be subtle differences between the two versions of the same camera. For one thing, the shutter on this older M3 seems to be a bit quieter than the shutter on its predecessor. And the film advance appears to be a tad smoother.
     Of course, I could be suffering from an over active imagination. But no matter. I like this early Leica M3 enough to plan to use it regularly in the future.

Leica M3 and Elmar 4/90 Lens

    Because I rarely shoot color film, I like to use vintage lenses on my 35mm cameras. One of my favorites is the Leitz Elmar 4/90 #1287930 (1955) shown here mounted on an M3, the same M3 I described in my September 9 blog entry, "Make Your Old Camera Great Again."

      Even though I know that dedicated Leicaphiles will roll their eyes and threaten to run me out of town on a rail, I have to admit that I attached a generic grip rather than a Leica grip to the camera (about $20). I also attached an inexpensive soft release to the shutter button.

    But that's not all. I even mounted an off-size Kenko lens shade to the lens using a few dots of Shoo Goo as an adhesive. The best thing about the Shoo Goo is that although it holds the shade firmly in place, the bond isn't permanent. I can easily remove the shade if I want to do so.

     Because this lens had some fog on its elements, and because the focusing mechanism was a bit tight when I got it, I sent it off to Youxin Ye for servicing. After that master craftsman worked his magic and returned the unit to me, it was like new...maybe even better than new. The lens was absolutely clear, and the helical was noticeably smoother.

     A million years ago when I was a young man, I had a Leitz 90mm Summicron. I think it was made in Canada. Compared to the rather large size of that unit, the 90mm Elmar is a pencil. And because it's so small and  weighs so little, it's a pleasure to use. What's more, when it comes to producing good images, it's no slouch, as shown in the accompanying  photos.

 

      Of course, nothing in life is perfect, not even a Leitz lens. In the case of the 90mm Elmar, my one complaint is that the aperture adjusting ring isn't click-stopped. Because of that minor glitch, you do have to take extra care when you adjust the diaphragm. .

      But that's certainly not a game changer, especially when you consider that this lens can produce excellent images. And...if you shop carefully, you can still find a Leitz 90mm Elmar that won't break your bank. I highly recommend it.

   

The Mighty Leica M4...and More!

Leica M4 with Jupiter Lens and Hand Grip

    There isn't much I could write about  the legendary Leica M4 that hasn't been written about at least a million times over the years. So what's new?
    Okay, buckle up. Here goes. Even though I realize that Leicaphiles everywhere are going to pillory me, I have to point out that my treasured M4 dares to be different because it doesn't sport a Leica lens or any of the many highly priced Leica accessories one can buy for a king's ransom.



     Take, for example the Russian Jupiter 2/50 lens shown here that I bought for a reasonable price on eBay. And notice that the lens sports a bargain-priced generic 40.5mm lens shade, as well as an inexpensive DHQ UV filter. To top it off I mounted the lens to the camera with an LTM-M mount adapter that cost less than $15.00.

Jupiter 2/50 Kentmere ISO 100 Film

       But won't there be a problem with performance? you ask. Won't a cheap lens provide crappy results? Truth to tell, not always. I've used USSR lenses over the years without any problems, although I must admit that I wouldn't rate the Russians #1 in quality control much of the time. I guess you could say that you "pays your money and you takes your chances" when it comes to buying Soviet Jupiter or Industar lenses. That said, you can still find some good glass in what is now known as the Russian Federation. Just be sure to shop carefully.

       Using inexpensive lenses, lens shades, filters, and LTM-M  adapters isn't the only Leica crime for which I could be run out of town or burned at the stake. Believe it or not, I even use a $20 3D printed unit that I ordered from cameradactyl.com.

 Butter Grip Seen from Below

      Called the Butter Grip, this handy accessory is the brainchild of Ethan Moses, who's the creator of a slew of unique accessories that won't send you to the poorhouse. Interestingly, the Butter Grip is available in several colors.
   

Butter Grip Seen Close Up

     I have to admit that I was skeptical when I ordered this hand grip. How good could it be at such a low price? I wondered. Luckily, I was pleasantly surprised.

       There's very little difference between my new Butter Grip and other grips I've owned that cost much, much more. This unit fits snugly and securely while providing a firm grip on the camera. And when the time comes to change the film on your Leica M, there's no need to remove the grip before you remove the bottom plate. That's because the plate and the grip are joined together. As a bonus, a hand grip attached to your camera protects the bottom plate from scratches and other abrasions.

      I'm very pleased with my new, inexpensive Butter Grip. If I were to make one suggestion, however, it would be to move the tripod mount opening toward the center of the unit and in that way provide for better balance when the camera is mounted on a tripod.

     In summary, if you're on the lookout for a hand grip that doesn't bear the Leica logo and cost an outrageous amount of money, you won't go wrong with a Butter Grip

     

Make Your Old Camera Great Again: Re-Covering the Leica M3

       Dedicated Leicaphiles would have gnashed their teeth and torn their hair out if they'd seen the bargain-priced Leica M3 I bought recently. The camera was bargain priced because although it was in excellent condition mechanically, its original vulcanite covering was a mess. With substantial sections of the covering missing, the camera looked like a refugee from a war-torn country.
.
     With a serial number of 899124, this photographic icon was one of 5,000 units manufactured in its batch in 1957. It's a double stroke model with a self timer and Buddha ears for attaching a neck strap. What the hey, I thought, if I were to replace the tattered covering, I'd have a nice companion to my pristine Leica M4.

     When I Googled "How To Recover Leica M3" on the Internet, I found enough entries to keep me busy reading until we start growing asparagus on the moon. Wow! Blah, blah, blah. Do this. Do that. You'll need this. You'll need that. Etc, etc., etc. Surely, I thought, recovering a camera couldn't be as  complicated as many "experts" reported it to be.

The M3 After I Removed the Vulcanite

      So I ordered a laser cut covering   for twenty-six bucks, picked up my old X-Acto knife, and got to work. To my surprise, some of the old vulcanite came off quite easily. But an equal amount did not. No problem. Using a Q Tip, I applied some paint remover to the covering.

     Then I waited about forty five minutes for the paint remover to soften the covering before finishing the job. If you do this, be sure to avoid getting the paint remover on the four little black screws at the front of the camera. It took me about two hours to complete this part of the job.

      As you can see in the photo (above), I still had to remove all the junk that remained on the surface of the camera. Using mineral spirits that I applied with a Q Tip, as well as my X-Acto knife, I spent another hour getting down to the bare metal. These two photos show what  the M3 looked like at this point. At last the camera was ready for me to apply the self-adhesive covering.

      Admittedly, this process was time consuming and a bit tedious. But it was worth it when I finally got to see my little beauty in the nude (except for her back door) while she waited for her new apparel to arrive from Japan.

   
        I ordered the replacement self-adhesive covering for the camera from www.aki-asahi.com. Click on "English Page" at the top of your screen.The leatherette arrived in just a few days. Here's what it looked like when I removed it from its envelope. This is the go-to site for covering material.

       Another outfit-- cameraleather.com  --- also sells replacement covers, but they've gotten a bad rap recently because of poor service, poor communication, and higher prices. Nonetheless, that site does offer excellent detailed instructions for applying the new covering to your camera. Click on "Support" at the top of the page. This is the go-to site for application instructions. Be sure to read these instructions before you cover your camera.

My M3 Wearing Its New Covering

       I used the "wet method" discussed in the Cameraleather instructions. This method requires you to use Purell Advanced Hand Sanitizer as an aid to positioning your new covering.
      In the photo (right) you'll notice a shadow below the small rangefinder window. This happened because the covering failed to adhere when I applied a little too much Purell to that section of the camera. No problem, though. I just waited for the excess Purell to evaporate before I applied pressure to the covering to set it firmly in place. Lesson learned: use the Purell sparingly.

   

    Although this was my first attempt at re-covering a camera, I found it to be a fairly easy process. In my opinion, perhaps the most important part of the job involves removal of the old covering and preparation of the camera's surface for the new covering. If you follow directions  carefully, are patient, and can work carefully, you should be successful  too.

Coming Soon: The Leica M1: A Minimalist's Dream


   
   

A Few Canon 135mm Serenar Photos

      The Canon Serenar 4/135 is an impressive lens. Built to outlast the pyramids, it has a removable lens head, an extremely smooth focusing mechanism, and glass that delivers sharp images.
       The only thing I don't like about this lens is the amount of chrome that reflects bright sunlight upward. This makes it difficult at times to read the inscriptions for focusing and f stops that are engraved on the barrel. That's why I stuck two strips of black electrician's tape to the barrel, as shown in the photo, left,
       If I had my druthers, I'd prefer to dress this lens in black. But then it would lose that gorgeous "vintage" look, wouldn't it? I took the photos shown below with a Serenar LTM mounted on either a Canon P, Canon L2, or Nicca Type-5. Kentmere 100 film processed and scanned by www.memphisfilmlab.org

Canon P

Canon P

Canon P

Canon L2

Canon L2

Nicca Type-5

nicca Type 5

Nicca Type 5

Coming Soon: A few Leitz Elmar Photos

A Few Retina IIIc Photos

 
     Using the Retina IIIc takes some getting used to. Unlike vintage Leica and Canon RF cameras, the IIIc's film advance lever is on the bottom of the camera. And then there's the EV system that works together with the camera's built in exposure meter. Finally, the IIIc simply has a different "feel" to it. But after you've dealt with these differences, you'll be more than pleased with the images you can create with this excellent camera.
        Below are several photos I took recently using the Retina IIIc. The camera sported a UV filter but no lens shade. Rather than fiddle with the camera's exposure meter and EV system, I used the Sunny 16 method for determining the outdoor exposures. I estimated the indoor shots. Matthew Gallant processed the film and scanned the negatives at  https://www.memphisfilmlab.org/shop.

      

 

 

      Coming Soon: A few Canon P and Canon L2 Photos