The Mighty Leica M4...and More!

Leica M4 with Jupiter Lens and Hand Grip

    There isn't much I could write about  the legendary Leica M4 that hasn't been written about at least a million times over the years. So what's new?
    Okay, buckle up. Here goes. Even though I realize that Leicaphiles everywhere are going to pillory me, I have to point out that my treasured M4 dares to be different because it doesn't sport a Leica lens or any of the many highly priced Leica accessories one can buy for a king's ransom.



     Take, for example the Russian Jupiter 2/50 lens shown here that I bought for a reasonable price on eBay. And notice that the lens sports a bargain-priced generic 40.5mm lens shade, as well as an inexpensive DHQ UV filter. To top it off I mounted the lens to the camera with an LTM-M mount adapter that cost less than $15.00.

Jupiter 2/50 Kentmere ISO 100 Film

       But won't there be a problem with performance? you ask. Won't a cheap lens provide crappy results? Truth to tell, not always. I've used USSR lenses over the years without any problems, although I must admit that I wouldn't rate the Russians #1 in quality control much of the time. I guess you could say that you "pays your money and you takes your chances" when it comes to buying Soviet Jupiter or Industar lenses. That said, you can still find some good glass in what is now known as the Russian Federation. Just be sure to shop carefully.

       Using inexpensive lenses, lens shades, filters, and LTM-M  adapters isn't the only Leica crime for which I could be run out of town or burned at the stake. Believe it or not, I even use a $20 3D printed unit that I ordered from cameradactyl.com.

 Butter Grip Seen from Below

      Called the Butter Grip, this handy accessory is the brainchild of Ethan Moses, who's the creator of a slew of unique accessories that won't send you to the poorhouse. Interestingly, the Butter Grip is available in several colors.
   

Butter Grip Seen Close Up

     I have to admit that I was skeptical when I ordered this hand grip. How good could it be at such a low price? I wondered. Luckily, I was pleasantly surprised.

       There's very little difference between my new Butter Grip and other grips I've owned that cost much, much more. This unit fits snugly and securely while providing a firm grip on the camera. And when the time comes to change the film on your Leica M, there's no need to remove the grip before you remove the bottom plate. That's because the plate and the grip are joined together. As a bonus, a hand grip attached to your camera protects the bottom plate from scratches and other abrasions.

      I'm very pleased with my new, inexpensive Butter Grip. If I were to make one suggestion, however, it would be to move the tripod mount opening toward the center of the unit and in that way provide for better balance when the camera is mounted on a tripod.

     In summary, if you're on the lookout for a hand grip that doesn't bear the Leica logo and cost an outrageous amount of money, you won't go wrong with a Butter Grip

     

Make Your Old Camera Great Again: Re-Covering the Leica M3

       Dedicated Leicaphiles would have gnashed their teeth and torn their hair out if they'd seen the bargain-priced Leica M3 I bought recently. The camera was bargain priced because although it was in excellent condition mechanically, its original vulcanite covering was a mess. With substantial sections of the covering missing, the camera looked like a refugee from a war-torn country.
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     With a serial number of 899124, this photographic icon was one of 5,000 units manufactured in its batch in 1957. It's a double stroke model with a self timer and Buddha ears for attaching a neck strap. What the hey, I thought, if I were to replace the tattered covering, I'd have a nice companion to my pristine Leica M4.

     When I Googled "How To Recover Leica M3" on the Internet, I found enough entries to keep me busy reading until we start growing asparagus on the moon. Wow! Blah, blah, blah. Do this. Do that. You'll need this. You'll need that. Etc, etc., etc. Surely, I thought, recovering a camera couldn't be as  complicated as many "experts" reported it to be.

The M3 After I Removed the Vulcanite

      So I ordered a laser cut covering   for twenty-six bucks, picked up my old X-Acto knife, and got to work. To my surprise, some of the old vulcanite came off quite easily. But an equal amount did not. No problem. Using a Q Tip, I applied some paint remover to the covering.

     Then I waited about forty five minutes for the paint remover to soften the covering before finishing the job. If you do this, be sure to avoid getting the paint remover on the four little black screws at the front of the camera. It took me about two hours to complete this part of the job.

      As you can see in the photo (above), I still had to remove all the junk that remained on the surface of the camera. Using mineral spirits that I applied with a Q Tip, as well as my X-Acto knife, I spent another hour getting down to the bare metal. These two photos show what  the M3 looked like at this point. At last the camera was ready for me to apply the self-adhesive covering.

      Admittedly, this process was time consuming and a bit tedious. But it was worth it when I finally got to see my little beauty in the nude (except for her back door) while she waited for her new apparel to arrive from Japan.

   
        I ordered the replacement self-adhesive covering for the camera from www.aki-asahi.com. Click on "English Page" at the top of your screen.The leatherette arrived in just a few days. Here's what it looked like when I removed it from its envelope. This is the go-to site for covering material.

       Another outfit-- cameraleather.com  --- also sells replacement covers, but they've gotten a bad rap recently because of poor service, poor communication, and higher prices. Nonetheless, that site does offer excellent detailed instructions for applying the new covering to your camera. Click on "Support" at the top of the page. This is the go-to site for application instructions. Be sure to read these instructions before you cover your camera.

My M3 Wearing Its New Covering

       I used the "wet method" discussed in the Cameraleather instructions. This method requires you to use Purell Advanced Hand Sanitizer as an aid to positioning your new covering.
      In the photo (right) you'll notice a shadow below the small rangefinder window. This happened because the covering failed to adhere when I applied a little too much Purell to that section of the camera. No problem, though. I just waited for the excess Purell to evaporate before I applied pressure to the covering to set it firmly in place. Lesson learned: use the Purell sparingly.

   

    Although this was my first attempt at re-covering a camera, I found it to be a fairly easy process. In my opinion, perhaps the most important part of the job involves removal of the old covering and preparation of the camera's surface for the new covering. If you follow directions  carefully, are patient, and can work carefully, you should be successful  too.

Coming Soon: The Leica M1: A Minimalist's Dream


   
   

A Few Canon 135mm Serenar Photos

      The Canon Serenar 4/135 is an impressive lens. Built to outlast the pyramids, it has a removable lens head, an extremely smooth focusing mechanism, and glass that delivers sharp images.
       The only thing I don't like about this lens is the amount of chrome that reflects bright sunlight upward. This makes it difficult at times to read the inscriptions for focusing and f stops that are engraved on the barrel. That's why I stuck two strips of black electrician's tape to the barrel, as shown in the photo, left,
       If I had my druthers, I'd prefer to dress this lens in black. But then it would lose that gorgeous "vintage" look, wouldn't it? I took the photos shown below with a Serenar LTM mounted on either a Canon P, Canon L2, or Nicca Type-5. Kentmere 100 film processed and scanned by www.memphisfilmlab.org

Canon P

Canon P

Canon P

Canon L2

Canon L2

Nicca Type-5

nicca Type 5

Nicca Type 5

Coming Soon: A few Leitz Elmar Photos

A Few Retina IIIc Photos

 
     Using the Retina IIIc takes some getting used to. Unlike vintage Leica and Canon RF cameras, the IIIc's film advance lever is on the bottom of the camera. And then there's the EV system that works together with the camera's built in exposure meter. Finally, the IIIc simply has a different "feel" to it. But after you've dealt with these differences, you'll be more than pleased with the images you can create with this excellent camera.
        Below are several photos I took recently using the Retina IIIc. The camera sported a UV filter but no lens shade. Rather than fiddle with the camera's exposure meter and EV system, I used the Sunny 16 method for determining the outdoor exposures. I estimated the indoor shots. Matthew Gallant processed the film and scanned the negatives at  https://www.memphisfilmlab.org/shop.

      

 

 

      Coming Soon: A few Canon P and Canon L2 Photos

Retina Renaissance

        In 1948 I was thirteen and in junior high school in New York City when the photography bug bit me. I can remember walking to school and peering into the windows of the many pawn shops that lined Third Avenue between 96th and 86th Street at the time. What a wonderland! There you could discover musical instruments, radios, jewelry, toasters, and just about anything you could think of for sale. And especially cameras.
     

Retinette II from My Current Collection

    One day as I pressed my nose against one of the pawn shop windows, I saw what was to be my first camera. Of course, I didn't know anything about cameras, but I did know that the one I was lusting after in the  window was meant for me.
     For the next few months I saved every penny I could earn as a grocery store delivery boy until I finally had enough money to buy my new treasure, a Kodak Retinette II which I now know was manufactured in 1939.
      I read everything I could about photography for the next five years while I practiced my newfound skills with my little Retinette. Zone focus by rotating the lens. Set the aperture and the shutter speed using the Sunny Sixteen rule. Cock the shutter. Peek through the viewfinder and release the shutter. How much more basic could you get?
      In 1953 I entered the Army and found myself serving overseas with the 7th Division in Korea. That's when I lost track of my beloved little Retinette and all the photos I had created with it. At the time, I didn't think much of it, but now I realize it was a disaster.

        Since then, I've owned Leicas, Canons, Voigtlanders, Agfas, Konicas, Nikons, Minoltas, Niccas, Ricohs, Yashicas, and dozens of other cameras. But of all the cameras I've owned, I have to admit that the Retina is the one that's closest to my heart.
        Currently in my collection I have a Retinette Model 020;  Retinette 1a;  Retinette II (shown above); Retina 1 Type 117;  Retina 1 Type 148; Retina 1a;  Retina 1b;  Retina II; Retina IIa; Retina IIc; Retina Auto III; and Retina IIIc. Which of these cameras is my favorite? Of course, I'll always have a warm spot in my heart for the Retinette II. But my hands down, all-time favorite is the Retina IIa.
      
     

      For one thing, the IIa doesn't have the tacky EV system you find on the IIc and IIIc. And it doesn't have the IIIc's exposure meter. Nor does it have the film advance lever on the bottom of the camera.
       But it does have an advance lever mounted on top; an excellent 2.0/50 Xenon lens; a nice, bright viewfinder/rangefinder system; shutter speeds of 1-500 +B; and easily accessed controls.
        As you can see, there's nothing fancy about this Retina. Not for everybody, it's perfect for the minimalist who shoots primarily in black and white and doesn't require the refinements offered by many other cameras.

         If I were to make a second choice, however, it would be the Retina IIc. Although it does have the much maligned EV system and a bottom mounted film advance lever, it seems to be noticeably sturdier than the IIa. On this model, there's a shutter rack system that's more reliable than that of earlier models. And the bellows is no longer exposed. The IIc features, also, a new door latch system. As is true with other Retinas, the shutter is whisper quiet: perfect for street photography.

         The IIc in my collection sports a 2.8/50mm Xenon C lens that can be removed and replaced by either an accessory 80mm or 35mm lens. Being a charter member of the Hopelessly Addicted Retina Collectors Club, I've ordered the 80mm lens and a 30mm/80/mm Multiple Viewfinder just to try out for fun.
     You've probably noticed that I haven't commented on flash synchronization, hot shoes, or the like. That's because I used flash only when I photographed weddings back in the days when the Beatles drove teenage girls crazy and Marilyn Monroe sang Happy Birthday to President John F. Kennedy.

Retina IIc, Kentmere ISO 100 film

       I'm not planning to discuss any of the other Retinas in my collection at this time, but if you would like me to do so, please post a comment and I'll respond.

       On another topic, I used to use lighter fluid (naptha) to free up lazy shutters and to loosen frozen helical mounts. But then I discovered CRC QD ELECTRONIC CLEANER. Designed to clean and protect electronic equipment, this product does a much better job than the lighter fluid does. If you use it, be sure to read the warning on the back of the aerosol can.
        

     

A Gallery of Photos

    Here's a gallery of photos I created using some of the vintage cameras in my collection. I used Arista.Edu 100 film developed in D-76. I printed the images on an RC paper before I scanned them into my computer.

 

      I'll post more photos in future installments of this blog.

The Diminutive Zeiss Ikon Ikonta

      At just about five inches wide, the Zeiss Ikon Ikonta is small enough to fit into the palm of your hand. What's more, at just a wee bit over a pound, it's light enough to carry around all day without breaking your back. And because it's a folder, you can even slip it into your pocket when you're not using it.

     As is true with other Zeiss cameras, the fit and finish on this little jewel are superb, and so are the mechanics. You can barely hear the shutter click when you release it. The focusing mechanism is as smooth as butter, as is the aperture adjusting ring which has no click stops.
     The front cover drops down and clicks into place securely. The film advance and rewind knobs operate smoothly. The back swings open for easy loading, and the shutter release (photo, ten o'clock ) is nicely placed.
      The Ikonta features, also, a self timer, as well as flash synchronization with an old style connector that wouldn't be a problem for me because I never use a flash unit. Another plus is that, unlike many other vintage cameras I've seen, this one has strap lugs.
   

     That said, I have to admit that the Ikonta isn't a camera everyone would fall in love with. The lens, for example, is a 3.5/45mm Novar Anastigmat, which is not exactly the gold standard among lenses. And the camera's top shutter speed is an uninspiring 1/300 second.
     Because the camera has no rangefinder, you must estimate distances when you focus on a scene. Fortunately, however, the 45mm lens offers excellent depth of field. Finally, you must cock the shutter manually either before or after you wind the film forward.

      It takes fairly nimble fingers to operate this camera. Notice how crowded the controls are. But there are advantages. At least the shutter release at the right in the photo (left) is substantial in size, and the focusing ring that encircles the lens is easily accessible and moves smoothly.     


        Interestingly,  the oversized  film advance and rewind knobs are at the bottom of the camera. To rewind the film, you push in the button on the advance knob to disengage the take up spool. Then you must reset the film counter manually. At the left in the photo you can see the tab that you push down to operate the sliding lever that opens the camera's back. Note the simple, uncluttered design.
              
        Seen from above are a very basic film type indicator dial on the left topped by a screw that supports the camera's film take up spool.
         On the right is another unit that seems to be merely decorative. I think the camera's designers added this disc to help achieve a sense of balance.
         Obviously, if speed, convenience, and automatic gizmos  are your middle name, the Zeiss Ikon Ikonta isn't the camera for you. But if, like me, you enjoy the challenge and sense of satisfaction offered by this historic image producer, then you'll probably enjoy using it